Dalmatic Fabric Guide: Brocade, Damask, Wool, Polyester

The fabric of a dalmatic affects how the vestment looks, how it drapes, how heavy it feels during a long liturgy and how easy it is to care for. Two dalmatics in the same liturgical colour can behave very differently if one is made of brocade and the other of polyester or wool.

This guide compares the fabrics most often used for dalmatics: brocade, damask, wool and polyester blends. It explains what each fabric is good for and how to choose the right one for your church, climate and budget.

Brocade

Brocade is a richly patterned fabric with a raised design, often woven with metallic or contrasting threads. It is one of the most traditional choices for solemn vestments because it catches the light and gives the dalmatic a ceremonial richness.

Best for: solemn feasts, processions, pontifical ceremonies and parishes that want a traditional look.

Consider: brocade can be heavier than plain fabrics and may require more careful care. The pattern and the metallic threads can make the garment less breathable, so it is less comfortable in a hot church.

Damask

Damask is a reversible patterned fabric, usually made from silk, wool or synthetic fibres. The pattern is woven into the fabric rather than printed on it, and it often has a subtle sheen that changes with the light.

Best for: parishes that want elegance without the weight and glare of heavy brocade.

Consider: the quality of damask varies widely. A dense, well-woven damask drapes beautifully; a thin one can look flat and wear quickly. Ask about the fibre content and the weight before you order.

Wool

Wool is a natural fibre with excellent drape and a matte, sober appearance. It is warm, breathable and traditional, especially for colder churches and for vestments that are worn over a heavy alb.

Best for: winter liturgies, unheated churches and a restrained, traditional look.

Consider: wool can be warmer than synthetic fabrics and may require dry cleaning. Some people find it itchy against the skin, although a dalmatic is worn over other garments. Moth protection is important when the vestment is stored.

Polyester and blends

Polyester and polyester blends are practical, durable and easy to care for. They resist creasing, hold colour well and are often more affordable than natural fibres. Many modern dalmatics use a polyester blend for the body and a decorative fabric for the orphrey or stole.

Best for: parishes that need a durable everyday vestment, warm climates and frequent use.

Consider: low-quality polyester can look shiny and feel less breathable. A good blend should have a pleasant drape and a matte or satin finish that suits the liturgical colour.

Which fabric should you choose?

FabricLookWeightCareBest use
BrocadeRich, patterned, ceremonialMedium to heavyCareful, often dry cleanSolemn feasts and processions
DamaskSubtle sheen, woven patternMediumGentle careElegant all-round vestment
WoolMatte, traditionalMedium to heavyDry clean, moth protectionCold churches and winter liturgies
Polyester blendPractical, often satin or matteLight to mediumEasy careFrequent use and warm climates

Colour and fabric together

The liturgical colour should be the first consideration, but the fabric changes how the colour reads. A white brocade can look bright and festive; a white wool dalmatic looks quieter and more austere. A green damask can be subtle and elegant, while a green polyester may look more uniform.

If you are building a set, order the dalmatic, stole and any other vestments in the same fabric and dye lot. This avoids visible differences in shade under church lighting.

Care by fabric

Always check the care label and the product description before cleaning a vestment. In general, brocade and wool are best dry-cleaned, damask should be cleaned gently, and polyester blends can often be washed on a delicate cycle. Avoid bleach, high heat and harsh detergents, especially on embroidered or metallic fabrics.

Store dalmatics folded with tissue paper between the layers, away from direct sunlight and damp. Use a breathable garment bag rather than plastic, and check periodically for moths, especially with wool.

Explore our dalmatics

Our dalmatics for deacons are made in Poland in brocade and other liturgical fabrics, with matching stoles and embroidery options. For more help, read how to measure for a dalmatic and dalmatic meaning and symbolism.